The Final (rather long) Chapter and more stitches. The Mentawai’s.

Not one but two planes full of passengers struggling to stifle coughs and sneezes accompanied with my ever worsening hangover, thanks Kevin, and all too short a nights sleep I finally arrive in Padang, Sumatra.

We so often take our planned, well signed, secure airports for granted, this journey involved a lot of following my nose from check in desk to check in desk to departures, arrivals, check in again and then departures again! You certainly had to guess, hope you’re right, and simply go with the flow – but hey that’s what travelling is all about. I just wish I didn’t have three surfboards in tow!

The pointy roofs of Sumatra airport rekindle memories of my last visit in 2003, but wow, I’m sure no 737 jets flew here back then, how Indonesia has grown.

So, the Mentawai’s.  Long been held as surfing’s Mecca I was scared and excited all at the same time!

Our boat, well I say our ‘boat’ it was a 110ft 4 mast schooner was promising a rather characterful end to my year’s journey.  Unfortunately just as my timing would have it had become stricken with a broken rudder we were to be upgraded to an aluminium catamaran that at first look rather closely resembled the Manly Fast Ferry painted yellow.  I mean come ON! Seriously!

So here I am sitting in the shade on the tropically thick bladed grass of Padang Airport waiting to meet the first of my soon to be close companions, nay shipmates, for the next 12 days; enter stage left LA Fireman, San Diego ripper, Greg Drude!

We hop in the hot taxi and whilst desperately praying for the AC to kick in and eating some fried chicken, it turns out this is his 23rd trip out here and although he too was a little bit gutted about the boat swap he quickly explained the legend of our new Skipper: Moose.  He then elaborated this with the advantages of the quicker new boat, and that Jordy Smith will be staying on it after we leave, things were beginning nicely.  This was after all a surf trip and well let’s face it who needs romance and character on that, just surf, comfort and a Captain who knew were to find both.

First sunset with my new shipmates

So we head into a hotel near the harbour to meet our other shipmates. Bang; eight Australians from Cronulla who, having been waiting since 11am (it was now 3pm) where already three, four, sheets to the wind! If first impressions count I was in for a voyage.

At times like these I always hark back to a wise saying: “if you can’t beat em, join em!”

This was going to be an Epic.

There she was, Crystal Clear, moored confidently to a rather ramshackle wooden pier. Sparkling freshly new in the streetlights.  She had no idea the havoc 10 men were about to set upon her; beer, skin, blood and betadine where all to stain her decks.

Crystal Clear in her element

With all safely on board (mercilessly out boards and bags had been already taken on board by the crew and stowed away) we cast off to gently chug down the river to the open ocean. On our way down the brown river houses banked steeply up on our left which, despite the hour, still had cocks crowing and dogs barking anonymously in the darkness. The right hand bank I simply failed to notice with my attention completely caught by this vertiginous ‘Riverdell’.

So, to sea, and to the sun deck to watch the sun set over the ever retreating port of Padang, make friends and begin our 14 beers/day quota!

If you’ve never slept on the open ocean (ferries don’t count) it is an experience to savour, provided it’s not a full blown Force 4 gale, the gentle rocking of the swell accompanied by the throbbing diesel engine is calmly soporific whilst the gurgling, cascading water makes you need the loo, Bintang driven, every time you are disturbed.  Yet even this, requiring you to go on deck, affronts you with an infinity of darkness that allows you to confront isolation in safety, well that bit of worry belongs to Captain Moose!

Our alarm clock was a sound we were to soon become accustomed to; the chain of the anchor being lifted.  The sound reverberated through the metal hull with what can only be described as tank track coming loose – whatever that may sound like – it was loud and obnoxious – I will have to record it for my personal use.

A quick ‘snooze’ button later and the reverse noise is heard only more violently as the anchor is dropped and looking out of my oblong porthole I’m greeted by dawn over tropical islands and peeling turquoise right hand waves – we were finally at Mecca, Mentawai’s, and more specifically Hollow Trees.

The view from the boat of HT’s

HT’s so named due to a hollow tree that used to live on the reef, now submerged due to ever rising water levels – pause for thought; how long will these islands be around – is a brilliant barrelling right over some pretty nasty reef.

The boys jump in without hesitation, I have a momentary freak out; I’ve got to hassle with 20+ guys to paddle for a precipitous take off directly into a barrel over shallow reef to maybe, probably not in my case, emerge victorious on the other side, f*ck the warm crystal clear water I’m staying on the boat!

Moose to the rescue; after a few well chosen discussions and verbal introductions about the wave we paddled out together to sit ‘wide’ and be patient.

Holy shit some of the things people were paddling for, getting smashed, completely the appropriate word here, dragged onto the reef and then having to paddle back out and round.  My courage was draining away until Moose again coming to the rescue called me into a couple of small ones, my confidence was building, kind of!  I think it’s time for breakfast and to apply more suncream/allow my heart rate to return to normal.

Second session saw me remain sitting wide but when a big sweeper of a bomb came there was nothing for it; now or never, put your head down and paddle like a daemon possesed…

If only id known

YEW! That’s the one, guys on the boat screaming, wind, speed, water all swirling around me – split second wrong decision, I wish I’d known/understood what the wave was doing behind me, I make for the top of the wave to make sure I can get the hell of there, bad decision, the wave bites my board and drags it up into the lip from under my feet, pitching me, speed wind etc face first into the turquoise concrete.

“Ouch! It’s ok” I say as I come up for air surprisingly only moments later. After my experience in Guatemala, I feel around and know it’s nowhere near as bad, until, hang on, whilst I paddle hard face down to get out of the impact zone, what’s that dripping muddy crimson?

Hmm, paddle swiftly to the boat I think, see what this is.  As I climb up asking, what’s all this, no one seems too concerned, then I lift my chin and I’m greeted by “oos” and “don’t worry Moose can stitch that up”.  Really! What have I done?  I can’t see a thing! Anyhow, I received the best medical care on the best surgeons table; the top deck of a gently swaying boat, bathed in sunshine, and five stitches. That’s my trip ruined in the first day I thought, the stitches in Guatemala had me out of the water for 7 days, but no, 24hrs later I was paddling, albeit very nervously out again into the lineup!

By the end of the first day we had: a shoulder pop out and be put back, more than a few get dragged across the reef and enjoy the ‘Betadine experience’ another shoulder almost tear and most importantly egos humbled.

Not much can be said about the evenings other than good food, relaxation and these Craig David loving Cronulla Cats! What can possibly be said about them, from teaching me how to shotgun a beer to momentous discussions on astrology and life!  I have to say they absolutely made my voyage overwhelmingly memorable – despite a certain effort to drag me back into drinking at 2am whilst I was on deck, in my pants, having a piss!  They made me miss the country I had abandoned all too soon. Join them I did, regret it I did not.

The rapid duh de duh de duh de duh de drops the anchor.  A quick spy out my porthole and we are at another idyllic spot, turquoise waters, clear sky’s and peeling – a bit smaller – waves.  Hungover? Definitely but I’m out the water this session allowing me to take in the full glory of where we are and the frothing faces that are on continuous rotation from the break to the boat and back again! This is the dream, as Adam asked me whilst I stand on the bow arms wide hoping no one was watching: “enjoying life Kinder?” Hell yes!

To say this became a tropical routine surfing paradise punctuated only by bigger waves, bigger barrels, more cuts and betadine!  But really that’s what it became.

An overnight trip complete with two fresh ‘Spanish Mackerel like’ fish catches producing fresh sashimi, once the fish had been put in the freezer to reduce its tropical sea temperature flesh, we arrive at the southern group of islands and the wave magnet Thunders. Rumble the waves did, barrel spit and scare me they did.  We were moored right alongside the break with its peeling spitting barrels shooting straight at us.  From here we experienced the full opera of surfing watching shattering tragedies and glorious triumphs as many a great wave was made and lost.  This is difficult to beat.

We powered back up the islands to Macaronis and wow what a fun wave.  It proved shallow but mechanically persistent allowing me to actually believe I might be ok at this surfing malarkey!

Then oh, how humbled I was when we went that afternoon to Greenbush.  This spitting wide barrel broke straight onto shallow sharp reef and only the brave decided to challenge its all enveloping allure. I stayed on the boat and took pictures whilst sipping a Bintang.

Greenbush

Thankfully, many evening shotguns later, we arrived back where we began at Lances Left, soon to be my nemesis due to being washed up onto the reef – I got greedy – and smashed onto the reef – bad wave choice.

I paddled out at day break all alone, determined to get in a few before the boys arrived.  Armed with a few landmarks from veteran Greg I made for the ‘peak’.  I must have sat there for almost an hour trying to get a wave till the others got dropped off by boat and paddled to a spot much further in and across from me and started catching nice long rides! DAMN. You never realise how much you need fellow surfers crowding a break until it’s too late!

My nemesis

Now, how many beers were left, 19 each to do in one night remaining, WHAT? Surely we were drinking more than that, well at least the vodka was gone.

We never even came close to finishing the quota and I was left alone on the bow deck staring out at the invisible black horizon, encircled by stars, ruminating about not just the last few days but the whole year past and the years future.  This was a fitting finale.

Our bodies broken we all parted great friends having shared a very unique experience.  I returned to Uluwatu to surf the mythical break, realise my body couldn’t handle anymore surfing and simply collapsed.

How fitting then that my adventures should start and end with a solid friend, Kevin.  There at the start when we met in Popoyo, Nicaragua, in the middle, Manly, Australia, and now at the end in Canggu, Bali.  This is quite possibly, hopefully, just the beginning of the next chapter.   Thank you to everyone i have met along the way and those I am still yet to meet, good luck to you all, i’m sure I will see you all again.

Kinder

P.S. The first things that have hit me, other than the cold, upon landing in UK;

  1. British birdsong, which has an almost light and jolly sound to it.
  2. Freshly cut wet grass
  3. Good quality toilet paper!

LSC Surfy Bit

Not much more can be said about the Mentawai’s.  This is no place for the fainthearted, no sand here, just reef and more reef, but the waves are so good and SO fun your surfing capability and confidence will double.

I won’t go into the detail of every break because if you go it’s more than likely going to be by a surf charter boat that will take you to the right places at the right time.  I would say, don’t be afraid to ask the captain for any details; currents, shallow reef, best looking angle/peak of wave to catch etc. they are an often underused resource.

I went with Moose on Crystal Clear which being a catamaran was much more roomy, stable and fast enabling potential for surfing breaks alone.

The Pelagius is the most expensive, followed by Additcion (from the Young Guns surf film with a helicopter on the back, pre drones) but I also had many a great line up chat with Captain Tommy of the brand new Indosato and would highly recommend him – despite his mick taking of there actually being a London Surf Club!

Kit wise, see photo, but invaluable items were painkillers, ibuleve, Betadine, and the amazing Rip Curl Pocket Reef Boots.

minimum of three boards required; 5’8, 5’11 and a 6’1 (could perhaps ditch the 5’8 and get another 6’2/3)
kit list; broad brimmed hat, duffel bag that fits in hand luggage allowance and will fit your fins, laptop, camera, phone, chargers etc, first aid kit, hydration tabs and water bottle, suncream, after sun, head torch, toiletries, 4 t shirts (one journey out and one back 2 2while you’re there), 2 boards and 1 standard shorts, shoes and flip flops, towel, surfing t-shirt, surfing sun hat, pocket reef booties, waterproof bag, board bag with wheels!

Uluwatu

at high tide this is a cauldron of swirling water. If confident, simply wade out to chest height then go for it!

I don’t need to say a thing here. You should have read all about it before you get here from Gerry Lopez and crew pioneering it back in the 70’s to the modern day wedding paradise, mushroom taking, drinking mayhem it has become.

Suffice to say the cauldron cave paddle out/in to the low tide reef barrels this break is in the tick list for a reason.

A word on showers. (Canggu)

Are you a bath or shower person?

There is something so relaxing about getting up and walking outside for your shower.

Canggu

This morning was no different but I suddenly realised I have had some great outside showers in my life. Here are my top four:

  1. Kenya, Lake Niavasha. Overlooking the lake, complete with hippos, I stood underneath a metal tub stained black with the soot of the wood fire now raging inside. The water would fall through a pipe from the water tower, bend its way through the fire before finally cascading onto my head below. The most comforting heat was accompanied with the smell of burning firewood, did I mention the view?
  2. La Riberia, Costa Rica. Post surf shower with well water that was brought but by a whacky contraption reminiscent of a miniature coal mine with a guy standing on top fixing/peddling it.
  3. Gili Trawangan, outside in a typical rainy season thunderstorm listening to the call to prayer.
  4. Canggu, Indonesia. This one is rather fancy; an ensuite half open and half covered with a lattice eve. The exposed wall engulfed in green leaves terminates by enclosing a hot water shower.

I’m currently burning around on a scooter in Canggu, Bali, Indonesia. Finally I’m back in the surf and able to walk and perhaps more importantly, dance!

no names

Time is almost over, but I keep convincing myself I’m ready, hmm.

Kinder

LSC SURFY BIT

Get a scooter, pooh your pants for the first few hours, less so for the first day, then you’ll get the hang of it. They are much easier now that they are automatic and have a kill switch when you put the kickstand down. (They didn’t always have this and theres a story to go with that 14 years ago, but not now!) There’s really three breaks in the Canggu area:

1. Berawa; this is a fun sand covered reef break. mainly packed with beginners and intermediates but can often be found empty due tot he popularity the other breaks in the area
2. Batu Bolong; great long boarding wave and PACKED with learners. Great for beginning.

Batu Bolong

3. Echo Beach; theres really three breaks, as you look out to sea on your left you’ll see a reefy left, straight out in front of the lifeguard/DJ booth, watch for rocks on the paddle out through the very helpful rip. You’ll see a peak that has a short fat right and a nice left, generally an easy take off and this morning I saw a local back door the barrel – everyone went YEW! Then theres the centre of the beach, punchy barrels. Finally on the right infant of the river theres a shallow reef that provides the best break that barrels. I find this one difficult due to shallow reef and you have to be going fast at the very small, often crowded, take off. But i you get there 30mins before it gets pumping at mid tide you can get it to yourself for a little while, then wait till everyone gets out and have it a little less crowded after! There are also peaks further up as well but don’t know much about these.

L-R Batu Bulong, Echo Beach Peaky partly sand covered reef fun left, river, great reefy shallow rampy right
Great religion, please respect it.
Local Temple

Free and diving.

Gili T with Gili Air on the right

Having a shower in your open air ensuite listening to the beautiful afternoon call to prayer – how do they get, and hold, those high notes? – is a rather surreal and somewhat magical experience.

This is Gili Trawangan; in an hour the call to prayer or Adhan will become jumbled up (I don’t mean remixed) with reggae rythms, people playing guitar on the street and the unmistakeable rolling base beat of Trance music.

The largest of the three Gili islands Trawangan is home to an odd mix of resorts, diving schools and backpackers stuffing their faces with mushrooms and playing beer pong! My stay here has been mixed with the torture of still rehabbing my foot and a brilliant introduction to freediving in beautiful waters teeming with life.

Looking towards the rain and Lombok

My first experience of Freediving was primarily because i wanted to learn how to control my breath in big waves but after this baptism I may be a little hooked.  You simply float there holding a buoy, staring down into the turquoise water with penetrating rays of light which instead of appearing to go away disappearing into the dark depths they shine invitingly out of the ultramarine fathoms that just disappear like the sky of a horizon but, only no horizontal feeling of edge, end, distance.  Beautiful – scary – unknown.

Unfathomable

I had issues equalising my sinuses which had me with a towel over my head, over a bowl of steaming water filled with ginger and turmeric and, somewhat more alarmingly, turned me vegan! So didn’t quite have as much fun as intended but the amount I did experience definitely made me think I could enjoy this completely natural – our bodies were designed for it – challenge.  Just don’t tell mum.

Sinus health

Off for my visa run to Singapore…then…back on a surfboard.

Be seeing you all so soon.

Kinder

Other points to know about Gili T:

DO NOT get the Sempana Ferry, engines broke down three times on the way over and then it was two hours late on the way back due to them breaking again and they broke down another few times on the way back too!

I also had my first no2 today (Thursday) after spending the whole of Monday night on the loo, don’t eat at the night market. Costs just the same as everywhere else but comes with a significant service.

No scooters are allowed – bliss!

Looking towards Bali

Bootcamp (Straya Part 2)

I never appreciated my feet.  In the words of that famous song: your foot bone’s connected to your ankle bone and your ankle bone’s connected to your foot bone, your ankle bone’s connected to your shin bone and your shin bone’s connected to your knee bone…” and so on and so on until your standing on a chair blind drunk doing all the actions that go with it.  But wow do we need all those song lines!

Anyhow – I managed to break my foot surfing a few weeks back whilst surfing with a Welshman called Seb!  (Not sure why that’s important.) It was let’s be honest a small wave in comparison to what we were surfing the day before. As I did it I thought that’s the closest I’ll come to breaking my foot!  So sat on the beach prodded it, wiggled it, etc Seb very kindly came out and checked on me and I told him not to worry…gave it a few minutes then paddled back out again only to do the first duck dive and feel my foot kind of splinter. Oops I thought.

When the ‘concerned’ Seb finally joined me at the car we drove off, dropped him at home, picked up my book from home and then off for an XRay and to meet several very young British Dr’s – one of them screamed when they saw a cockroach – on their first placement overseas.  Another Doctor very kindly came back with THE ‘boot’ told me how to wear it and then decided to tell why I had too, it was broken. Bugger.

More painful than the foot was that this was two weeks before the surf trip of a lifetime 6 weeks in Indonesia and a once in a lifetime trip abroad a boat in the Mentawais to actually get good at surfing for a change!  I can’t believe this had happened to me again! (I broke my hand two weeks before a surf trip to Morocco in 2010.) Still I count myself luckier than the guy next to me who had been bitten by a spider and his arm looked like it had a football attached to it!

So I settled into the couch for my final two weeks in Oz staring out at the sea and PUMPING waves – damn I hate having a view of the sea!

Boot with a view

Anyhow to cut through all the boring whingeing which Kevin, Seb, Isabell, Matt and Hector took the brunt of I find myself in Indonesia trying not to walk far – get too drunk, or sunburnt whilst ignoring all the people zipping past on mopeds with surfboards.

Eight months is a long time to be somewhere so I’m not going to write about it I’ll just share some pictures and you can guess the stories – they were all good.

  

My stay in Australia – although undocumented here – would not be possible without the following people putting up with me: Kevin, Hector and Clare, Matt, Seb, Eve, Isabell, Laurs, Dan, Mark, Joey, Leah, Craig, Tom, Robbie, Pat, Tom, Alexa, Gemma, Tom, James, Fabio, Guy, Alex, Birdie, Tim, Lucy, Laura, Ashley, Mike, Jamie, Alice, Chelsea, Leon, Xanthe, Fede, Michael, Michelle, Luke, Olli, Elin, Alex, Zac, Jack, and of course the Goodall family; David and Babs,  Nick and Alex + Lucy and Sophie, Ruth and Charlie!

Make Australia Great Again
Dehydrated Christmas
The Goodall family

Blimey why did I leave? Hope to see you all again sometime in the future.

 

Drifter / Settler (Straya Part 1)

To be settled, is that the goal?  Or can you drift with enough focus to enable you to be settled in a different way?

I have been living in Australia for the last 8 months with the question of: “Can I live here?” looming over me.  Part of me wishes I had more time to mull the question over but would extra time really of changed my mind?

What a country! I have rarely been outside of a two hour drive of Sydney and I love the place.  Thirty minutes outside the centre and you are driving past emerald seas, dusty green gum forests and orange and black swathes of fire ravaged landscapes.

Breakfast on the balcony?

I truly was living the dream in an apartment overlooking the ever changing emerald seas and I was only an hour commute to work.  Commute, i’m not sure I can really call it that.  I would walk out my door, cross the courtyard, round the corner of the building and be greeted by Manly Beach and the view of Fairy Bower, then I would descend the steps, cut/cast into the cliff, past Queenscliff Rockpool (a 50m seawater lido), across the beach, skate along the famous promenade and jump on a ferry for the 30min ride across one of the most beautiful and iconic harbours in the world.

The beginning of my daily commute
Tough day at the office?
Exilarating commute.

Once on the return leg I called Christian and the comparison could not have been more stark; me walking across a beach and up a cliff whilst he was on a packed, late, train with rain beating the outside and condensation streaming down the inside of the window.  How lucky am I?  But still the conversation revolved around what was happening at home.  My half brother David has lived in Australia since the early 80’s and said to me that it took him almost ten years to stop calling Britain his ‘home’ and he moved out here with his wife and three children.  Is home where you feel most settled or is home where the heart is?  My New Zealand taxi driver to the airport this week imparted that; “you don’t choose where to settle, it chooses you.”

Yearly Surf Lifesaving Carnival providing a guard of honour for a recently deceased members ashes to be sprinkled at sea from one of the SLSC rowing boats.

Manly and the Northern Beaches are home to more British Expats than I care to imagine, I mean its understandable, why move halfway round the world and not live but the beach?  Unfortunately I feel this part of Sydney is spoilt by its surroundings and in talking to a lot of people here it simply doesn’t have the oomph of Europe.  The passion behind politics and life driven by culture and quite simply the numbers of people.  There is always the natural beauty of the location that seems to allow people to either ignore or gloss over the passion.

On patrol.

Whilst here I have surfed everyday there has been surf not just weekends but before and after work but it still isn’t enough, I need more than just my hobbies to keep me focused.

I have met many people who have moved out here and stayed and it is easy to see why and I ask myself is it all about timing this feeling of being settled.  The choices and friends you make and miss all start to lead you somewhere.  Part of me feels that the last year I have been drifting which is exactly what a sabbatical is for, but now it is time to get serious, where am I going to live and focus on the next adventure.

I write this after just arriving in Indonesia after enduring a cramped plane with a broken foot.  Cars constantly flirt with their horns and blink their disco brake lights at each other surrounded by the unmistakeable smell of heat, frangipane flowers and sweet clove cigarettes.  I guess I can drift a little while longer.

Not long left now.

Kinder

 

LSC Surfy Bit

There are SO many breaks in and around Sydney within a two hour drive.  In fact most people rarely drive more than thirty minutes and even then prefer to stay closer to home.  This is a bonus because, if, like us, you are used to driving for upwards of four hours – well I guess I rarely drove, bit of a car slut me – a one to two hour drive will be met with crystal, swimming pool like, waters empty line ups and pumping waves plus maybe a few sharks.

A couple of general things about Sydney and its swells.  First; you are lucky, very lucky if you get a period of over 10 seconds.  This is because almost all of the swells are generated close to shore they simply do not get the fetch like we do across the Atlantic. Second; get good at duck diving, the beaches are, as the name suggests mainly beach breaks and when the swells to hit it can be a punishing paddle out.

The better swells tend to come from the south though they are often preceded by NE swells before and after.  Direct southerly swells hit the southern beaches best but put a little east in it and the sheltered corners of the northern beaches begin to look a lot more inviting.

If you surf, you want to live on the northern beaches.  Yes, you can live in Bondi and have access to the other four breaks in the area – Bronte being my favourite – be close to the city etc etc but the northern beaches gives you access to twenty or more breaks within about an hours drive.  That said I shall stick to my three actually four favourite northern beaches breaks and two day trips that I did, the rest is up to you to find which, lets be honest is dead easy as there are so many guidebooks and web cams available.

Queenscliff aka Queensie

I surfed here more than anywhere else because I lived directly above it and it took me four minutes from my door to the sea and the nice little rip out by the rockpool/lido, but keep you mouth shut as some pretty nasty water comes out here after the rains.

Queenscliff/North Steyne on fire

Freshwater aka Freshi

I have a soft spot for this break, whenever I have taken people here they have a ‘shit surf’ but its awesome when working and faces directly south picking up all the swell but remaining sheltered from all but the direct southerly winds.  It often comes with a more ‘family’ and chatty vibe without tourists and it is definitely one of the prettiest breaks of the Northern Beaches.  I also happen to be a volunteer Lifeguard here!

 

Long Reef aka Longi

If the southerly swell is in town and there is little to no wind/westerly – here is where it will be pumping up and down the beach.  There is a outer reef that works for the longboards at mid tide and a stream that empties into the middle forming a nice bank.  A true favourite if we can’t be bothered to drive the extra ten minutes for a much quieter line up at Mona Vale.  I broke my foot here.

Avalon

This picks up big southerly and northern swells and has a slab called Little Avalon.  It has sand covered rocks tot he south, and centre with eh north end forming nice long rides when the NE swell hits.

When its big this can often be quite sheltered and when its on its truly world class – so much so in fact Kelly Slater has a flat overlooking the break.

The only thing people don’t like about this beach is the sand is ‘a little coarse’ but really – who cares.

Avalon, winter

Central Coast; Pelican Beach, aka Pelos’

Crystal clear, in fact swing pool quality water will invite you here time and again.  I have surfed it when its been pretty heavy and barreling with a demanding paddle out, and when its been 30+ degrees and nice gentle peaks.

Pelos summertime

Secret breaks galore round here…you just have to know the banks and where the sharks aren’t.  I don’t suggest you surf to far into dusk like I did only to be told:”jee ma8T you were out there a while – its a bit shaky round ‘ere”

Somewhere secret near Pelos’

Royal National Park; Garies Beach, Mid Era

This is truly a beautiful beach in the middle of the National Park.  Great little break and if you can be bothered to walk around the corner there is massive potential – you just have to walk.

South, Mid and North Era

Visas in Indonesia

I’m surprised at the lack of clarity given on several websites about how to get a visa and how long it will last. Im from the UK but flying in from Australia and I’m only going to focus on tourist visas for that’s all I have had experience in.

There are three basic types:
1. Standard 30 day entrance tourist visa. Simply que at immigration and get the stamp. This is NON EXTENDABLE. But you can do a visa run and get another 30 days. This is often a $250 Aud return flight to Kuala Lumpur/Singapore.
2. Standard visa on arrival, VOA, for 30 days. This you pay for at Denpasar airport, $35 USD, this is where I flew into. It get in a different Q! This one you CAN get extended to 60 days but the slow process will take 10+ days and you will need to part with your passport for a couple of days and visit the immigration department for your photo to be taken near the airport. You can do this yourself or pay someone to do it. Check the place is reputable this is your passport we’re talking about. This costs about $34 AUD for the service and about the same for the visa. You can do the fast version, takes about a week all in for roughly double. You can only extend it once. Despite all the above I have read some blogs that said at Lombok airport they are friendly and you can often get your VOA 30 day visa don get it extended when you arrive….
3. Apply before you arrive. But this has to be done a short period before you get there and can be a pain if in another country so I didn’t research this any further!
4. Overrun your visa and pay approx $20 USD/day…

Put simply if you want to stay more than forty days it is by far the simplest and cheapest option to do a day visa run – so factor this into your plans!

Bibliography;

How to Extend Your Visa in Bali

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/asia-south-east-asia-islands-peninsula/indonesia/how-long-do-i-have-to-out-of-the-country-to-renew-30-day-visa-on-arrival

Extending a 30 Day VOA (Visa on Arrival) in Bali

https://www.bali.com/visa-indonesia-entry-requirements-bali.html